Hiking along the water

+230m / -290m / 9km

The forecast says cloudy all day. I don’t feel like climbing a summit just to find the view blocked, so I pick a valley-floor hike instead. The trail follows a river between Takao and Hozukyō for 9km, with a 5km option leading to Arashiyama.

I buy a picnic at Fresco and catch the 8:21 bus at Marutamachi Onmaedori. I reach Takao just before 9. First I have to descend to the river. After a pretty red bridge, there’s a hotel (with baths, maybe?) and the tables of a restaurant set just above the water, under the maples. It must be packed in autumn!

I climb the stairs on the opposite side leading up to Jingo-ji temple. It’s very humid, and I’m drenched in sweat by the last step. I pay the 1000 yen entrance fee to visit. The grounds are well maintained, but the pavilions look a little dilapidated—too bad. I go back down the same way, then turn right onto the road that runs along the river.

The path never strays far from the water. There are lovely views from the switchbacks and the different bridges. The tree cover is uneven, and the light creates nice contrasts. I have fun taking photos in this shaded environment. The water is clear, and a few walkers are wading. I arrive at Kiyotaki and recognize the bridge I passed when climbing mount Atago.

After that, the trail enters the Hozu Gorge. It’s noon when I reach Hozukyo Torokko Station, where I sit down to eat. Large boats full of tourists float past below. Once I’ve finished my lunch, I look for the trail to Arashiyama in vain. The maps show it isn’t connected to the station, but given the proximity I thought it might be possible to reach it. Never mind—the hike will be a bit shorter. I’ve already enjoyed it plenty. I walk the last stretch of road to JR Hozukyō Station and catch the 13:23 train to Emmachi.