Experiences in Tokyo

A visa application forces us to go to the French Embassy in Tokyo. We take the opportunity to spend two days there.

The first experience, at the embassy, is rather unpleasant. Only those applying for a visa are allowed inside the building. For companions like me, waiting outside is the only option. I thought there would be an air-conditioned space open to everyone, or at least access to drinking water—but no such luck! The fact that I’m French makes no difference. I sit on a patch of sidewalk in the shade in front of the embassy and wait. Thanks for the warm welcome!

Fortunately, the next experiences are much more enjoyable. We take the subway north to Nerima to visit The Making of Harry Potter. Inside a huge building, we walk through the iconic sets from the films. There are a few attractions, a café/restaurant, and even an outdoor area. There’s so much to see that we spend about four hours there without even noticing the time go by.

After that, we catch a train to Shibuya. We meet up with a friend at a Singaporean restaurant, then go for drinks together at a cocktail bar, The SG Club. Apparently, it ranks highly in certain lists. It isn’t cheap, but the atmosphere is relaxed, and the cocktails are creative and tasty. Our server happens to be French. When he isn’t busy at other tables, we enjoy chatting a bit about our lives in Japan.

The next day, we take the subway to the Sumida district. We have a reservation at Nishiiwa-beya Sumo Stable to watch a training session. As we arrive, we can already hear the wrestlers through the half-open doors. We sit behind the master and observe in silence. It’s fascinating: the earthen training ring, the types of exercises, the closeness to the wrestlers (the room isn’t very large), and their relationship with the master. The training is led by the senior students, while the master keeps a watchful eye, occasionally offering advice. Sometimes he stands up to demonstrate a particular move himself. After the physical exercises, the students move on to short practice bouts, showcasing different techniques. Their commitment is moving: they give everything they have, and I can really feel the intensity of the training. They do this nearly every day, all while following a strict diet to grow stronger and heavier. Their entire lives seem dedicated to this martial art.

After lunch, we head south to visit the Sumida Hokusai Museum, dedicated to the artist of the same name, best known for The Great Wave off Kanagawa, who was living in the neighborhood. The printing technique is clearly explained. We can also flip through the artist’s sketchbooks (copies, I imagine) and admire the Panoramic View of Both Banks of the Sumida River, a wonderfully delicate painting on a 7-meter-long scroll!