The three temples dedicated to the three sacred mountains of Kumano, in three days!
Day 1
Departure from Kyoto this Friday around 6:30am then change at Osaka to catch the Kuroshio. We board the train just in time after asking for directions twice: the platform for this train is quite far from those of other lines and is not very well indicated. After Wakayama, the train runs between sea and mountain until Katsuura.
There is apparently a quite famous tuna fishing port. We take a short walk on the pier and taste some sashimi from the local fish. Then, we take a bus that takes us to the foot of Daimon-zaka. This paved path crosses a forest of ancient cedars and leads to the Kumano Nachi Taisha shrine. The main pavilions are built on large terraces that offer beautiful views of the valley. The scents of incense mix with the smell of burning cedar in a small fire in front of the temple. An imposing tree stands next to it: the hollow trunk is wide enough for a person to enter and climb the ladder installed inside.
From a terrace a little further away, we can see the Sanjuno-to pagoda and the Nachi waterfall. We approach the pagoda for some photos, and we descend to the bottom of the waterfall.
We take a bus to Shingu. Check-in at the hotel, then dinner at an okonomiyaki restaurant just a few steps away.
Day 2
We set off on foot towards the Kamikura Shrine. Located on the mountainside overlooking Shingu, the stone staircase leading up to it is very steep. The shrine itself is not very large, especially compared to the huge rock above it. We descend via a parallel path that is a bit gentler. We continue our walk towards the Kumano Hayatama Taisha. Several well-maintained pavilions (the paintings are vibrant) stand in a small park.
We then cross Shingu towards the East, first through a deserted covered street, then via the ruins of the local castle, and finally along a quiet canal. We emerge onto a pebble beach and the vast Pacific Ocean. A foot bath for the bravest, despite the power of the waves. Return to the center of Shingu and the train station. We have sushi for lunch, then take a bus to Kawayu Onsen. Well, almost, the bus drops us off a 45-minute walk from the hotel. Enough to see the valley up close and observe a group of monkeys perched above the road.
Once settled, we try the outdoor hot springs, in the riverbed. Dinner at one of the few restaurants in the area.
Day 3
We set off on foot after a hearty breakfast. We walk through a long tunnel before finding ourselves in a fairly open valley. We arrive at Yunomine Onsen an hour later. It’s small but charming. A basin in the center of the village allows you to cook vegetables and eggs in the hot spring.
We take a part of the Kumano Kodo to change valleys. The path is entirely under the forest cover. It’s well maintained and well signposted. Here too, it takes us about an hour to reach the village. Quick stop at a grocery store, then we discover the large torii of the Kumano Hongu Taisha shrine (and for good reason, it would be the largest torii in the world). A few flights of stairs later and we are surrounded by the pavilions of the shrine. The buildings are elegant and it’s a bit crowded.
We head back down to have lunch at one of the nearby restaurants. Then, a bus takes us to Tanabe, where we catch a train to Osaka. It’s almost 8pm when we arrive in Kyoto.