Intro
Leaving at 10:50pm from Kyoto station by a night bus. The night is short since it takes about 6h30 to get to the Kamikouchi bus terminal: arriving at 5:20am in a freezing cold. With the darkness and the fog, nothing exists beyond 50m. At 6am I have breakfast in the cafeteria that has just opened, then I leave some of my belongings at the luggage room. It’s time to get moving.
Day 1 – Mount Nishihodoppyo
+1300m / -1300m / 15km
The fog clears a little with the first rays of the sun and I finally see the surrounding mountains. I walk along the river south for a while to climb Mount Yake. But the path that branches off to the slope is blocked. According to the explanatory panel, the access to the mountain is not open because there are no ladders at the end of the ascent. I turn around and walk up the valley a bit. I take another fork in the road, this time to Mount Nishihotaka.
It’s very steep, and the path is mostly a succession of steps: logs, stones, roots, planks… I meet a few wild monkeys and overtake a few hikers.
When I arrive at the pass, I chat with another hiker (Sato). He tells me that the path to Mount Nishihokata is “difficult”, and that he will stop a little earlier on the ridge, at Mount Nishihodoppyo. We are in the middle of a cloud and it’s starting to snow, I tell myself I am going to do the same thing as him. Sato starts in front. I am now out of the forest but not out of the cloud, and I can’t see anything. Where’s the summit? I feel like there is no end to the ridge path and I’m thinking about giving up. But I distinguish Sato’s fluorescent bag rain cover a little further on, I keep going…
The peak is finally in sight. It’s a bit like rock climbing, I have to use my hands and be careful because a thin layer of snow covers the rocks. I find Sato at the top, I relish the achievement. The view is completely blocked, but the wind calms down a bit. We are joined a few minutes later by a hiker I met just before. There are 3 of us on this little piece of rock, alone in the world. We take pictures and exchange a few words. Then we start the return trip together. We stop at a refuge on the edge of the forest for lunch. When it’s time to leave, Sato extends his break to smoke, so only 2 of us continue. The snow quickly turns to rain and the steps become slippery.
Once in the valley, we go back to the bus terminal enjoying the beautiful colors before our paths part. I go back to the luggage room to get my things and leave for the Myojinkan lodge 3km away. The sun has returned.
Day 2 – Mount Choga
+1250m / -1250m / 17km
I set off for Mount Choga on the advice of the lodge manager. First there are 3km at the bottom of the valley, then I attack a rather pleasant climb in the forest. The weather is good, but it cools down on the heights. The snow that fell the previous days is still there in places, and I come across a pond caught in the ice. I come out of the forest and I can see the summit.
When I arrive, I am rewarded with a 360° panorama and a sea of clouds. I descend a little on the ridge on the other side of the summit to a hut and a viewpoint indicator. I eat next to it in front of the landscape. It doesn’t take long for a cloud to come and the view quickly deteriorates. Before leaving, I make a stop at the refuge for a hot tea and a pastry.
The weather gets better when getting down in the valley.
Day 3 – Mount Kasumizawa (pic K1)
+1380m / -1380m / 15km
Today my host advises me to go to Tokugo Pass. No need to walk in the valley, the climb starts right next to the lodge. The path is easy but it is in the shade. It’s still early when I get to the pass, so I take the ridge path to the right towards the “junction peak”. The path is less well maintained but it is doable, and above all there are some passages in the sun. It’s only 10:30am when I get to the peak.
A short break and I continue the ridge path to Mount Kasumizawa since I have some time left. First downhill, then uphill, then downhill, etc. I yo-yo on the ridge for 1h30. The path deteriorates as I go along. The end is obnoxious, with walls of rocks or mud to cross. The vegetation has grown in places and I struggle with bushes or low branches. The worst comes at the end, when I have to make my way up an ultra-steep and completely rutted staircase made of logs and stones, all under a thin layer of snow and ice. Rope ends fixed upstream act as handrails. What a treat! I haven’t met anyone since I left the lodge, I feel alone in this mess, and not very reassured. A few footprints in the snow indicate that others have passed through here, that’s still it.
I finally get to the top, and fortunately the view is clear. I take a quick break and make my way home. The second peak (K2) is not very far away, but I lost a lot of time, and the idea of doing the whole trip in the opposite direction doesn’t appeal to me. And it is indeed very painful. The descent into the snow/ice is a test of faith in my trekking poles and the soles of my shoes. On the other hand, the walls of the area are easier to negotiate in this direction.
I go back to the “junction peak” and I’m finally relieved. I know the rest is easy. I take a quick break, and I leave with confidence. I rush through the remaining -900m / 4km in 1h20.
Day 4 – Valley
It’s the resting day. I’m still out at 5:30am with another resident to see the sunrise and visit the Myojin pond at 6am. The mist on the shimmering water gives a very special atmosphere.
After breakfast, I head into the valley towards the Kappa bridge. The weather is fine, the foliage is brilliant. It’s so nice! Lunch at the campsite restaurant, then I go for a walk around the Taisho pond.
Day 5 – Takayama
I leave the lodge around 8am and I take a bus at the terminal at 9am.
I arrive in Takayama 2h later and after changing buses at Hirayu onsen. I empty my bag into a coin locker and leave for the folk village of Hida. I have lunch on the way and I taste the “hoba miso” (grilled miso on a magnolia leaf), excellent! I thought Hida Village was a historic district, but it’s more of a museum, a kind of attraction. I take a quick turn and head back to the city center. I walk through a few streets and slowly make my way back to the train station. I collect my belongings and board a comfortable train at 3:30pm. I am in Kyoto 4h later.
Myojinkan
A word about the lodge, where I was very well received. The meals were good, and the hot bath on the way back from hiking was just perfect. It was nice to chat in Japanese with the team or the boarders (and in English with some of them!).
