All that remains, almost
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Kohechi
Kohechi is one of the three Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes. It’s the most mountainous of the three and links Koyasan to Hongu Taisha…
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Koyasan
After leaving at 6:30, we take a bus to Saiin, then the train to Awaji. We change at Tengachaya, then again at Gokurakubashi. This third train only has four cars but large windows — perfect for enjoying the scenery comfortably seated. We finish the journey with a funicular to Koyasan Station, then a bus that…
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Hakusan
+1350m / -1350m / 14km We’re off work this Friday. We leave Nijo Station at 6:59 and transfer at Kyoto Station to the Thunderbird, a limited express train that runs all the way to Tsuruga, at the northern tip of Lake Biwa. From there we take a local train to Fukui. Once there, we pick…
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Hiking along the water
+230m / -290m / 9km The forecast says cloudy all day. I don’t feel like climbing a summit just to find the view blocked, so I pick a valley-floor hike instead. The trail follows a river between Takao and Hozukyō for 9km, with a 5km option leading to Arashiyama. I buy a picnic at Fresco…
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Of azure and ochre
Day 1 The hardest part is renting the car. I had booked a compact, but there isn’t one available. After a 30-minute wait, an employee shows us a black Jeep. We walk around the vehicle together, and I spot a nasty gash in one of the tires. Goodbye Jeep. Another 30 minutes go by while…
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Paris as a tourist
A trip to France usually means passing through Paris. It’s the perfect chance to visit a few places in the capital. We start at Place de la Bastille, then move on to Place des Vosges and Saint-Paul. Crossing the Seine, we reach Île Saint-Louis and soon find ourselves on the forecourt of Notre-Dame. We were…