Back to West Lake

It has only been 3 months since my last visit to Hangzhou, but I’m happy to be back.

As soon as I arrive, I meet again the cluttered sidewalks with cars parked everywhere, loud conversations drifting through the streets, and the smells of simmering dishes. Because it’s Chinese New Year season (this year falling on 17 February), red and gold decorations are up all over the city.

I recognize the neighborhoods around the botanical garden and West Lake. The hills and ponds come back to me easily, as do the buildings and shops. Getting around by public transport is smooth, using Alipay — the Swiss-army-knife app that does almost everything.

But that sense of familiarity doesn’t go very far. During a walk in a nearby district, I quickly start to feel lost. Beyond the landmarks, everything feels foreign and different: people attending to their business, the clutter around some building entrances, the scent of flowering trees… I’m also surprised by a few dishes I have never tried before.

Day 1

It’s cool today and the sky stays overcast. We head back to Maojiabu, a quiet spot largely ignored by holiday crowds. On the way back, we stop for xiaolongbao — just as delicious as ever.

Day 2

A short hike on Baoshi hill. We visit the Baopu taoist temple and walk past the foot of Baochu pagoda, before cutting through a small amusement park for children.
After dark, we stroll along the banks of the Grand Canal Jing–Hang, where temporary light installations have been set up.

Day 3

We cross the Yuquan campus of Zhejiang University under a clear blue sky. Then it’s time for a visit to the botanical garden: the plum trees we saw last time are now in full bloom! We soak up the early-spring atmosphere with a cosy café break inside the garden.
After dinner, I learn the basics of mahjong through a few guided games. Beginner’s luck is very much on my side!

Day 4

A slow, easy walk today along the bamboo-lined path at Yunqi. Several remarkable trees — some estimated to be over a thousand years old — and a few small pavilions complete this lush and peaceful setting.