Kohechi

Kohechi is one of the three Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes. It’s the most mountainous of the three and links Koyasan to Hongu Taisha. See: https://www.tb-kumano.jp/en/kumano-kodo/kohechi/

I spent the night at the Nosegawa Hotel, tucked away in the Kii Mountains. The staff were welcoming, and the place had everything a hiker might need: hot baths of course, a shuttle service from Koyasan, drop-off at the trailhead, a picnic option, etc.—very convenient. The baths clearly weren’t off-limits to people with tattoos, because almost everyone had one! One guy had a tattoo covering his entire back. Judging by the style, I think he was a Yakuza… I didn’t ask for confirmation.

Day 1

+740m / -1090m / 15km

The shuttle drops me off around 8 am at the Omata bus stop. Another guest from the hotel is going the same way, but after quickly checking the map, I set off ahead. We cross paths a few times during breaks. The climb is steep at first, then eases up after the Kaya-goya-ato shelter. The trail is steady and easy: soft dirt most of the time, leaf litter or cobblestones for the rest.

I don’t stay long at Obako-toge Pass—there’s wind and it’s cold. I start descending, which is easy as well. The sun stays hidden, first by clouds, then by the mountains. The final stretch is on the west-facing slope. It’s brighter there, and also steeper, but not for long.

Once in the valley, I walk around Miuraguchi and wait for the bus I booked. There are only two small inns here, and both were full when I tried to get a room. So I booked a stay at Hotel Katayama in Totsukawa (about 45 minutes away). A car pulls up and the driver asks for someone named Tim… probably the guy from Nosegawa Hotel. A second car arrives a few minutes later. This time, the driver is asking for me! I’m surprised. Apparently I was the only person who reserved transportation today, so the company sent a car instead of the van. I chat with the driver during the ride.

When I reach Hotel Katayama, I settle in and head straight to the baths. They’re almost outdoor baths: all the doors and windows are wide open, even in the changing room. You have to feel cold before you can feel warm. I then enjoy a hearty dinner.

Day 2

+815m / -1050m / 20km

Since I need to catch the shuttle at 7:25, I don’t have time for breakfast at the hotel. I eat a few almonds and nuts with hot tea in my room, then go down to pick up my picnic and head to the bus stop. A few minutes later, another taxi from the same company as yesterday arrives and takes me back to Miuraguchi around 8 am.

The trail crosses a home’s garden and enters a conifer forest. The terrain is steady and easy to walk. Near Miura-toge Pass, sunlight filters through the canopy in places, and a few deciduous trees begin to appear.

I have lunch at the pass. It’s only 11 a.m., but I’m hungry. I don’t linger—cold settles in quickly and my fingers start to go numb. The descent is also through the woods, and just as pleasant as the climb, though a bit long (7 km). At the bottom, I pass a few houses and two paved sections before leaving the dirt trail for good. From this point on, the route follows the road along the valley floor.

I stop at the only grocery store around. There isn’t much choice, and no fresh products… I grab a slice of ham and a sweet bean bun. The bun is fine; the ham has a disgusting taste, like bad pâté.

Back on the road, I’m struck by how many houses are abandoned. The few that are still inhabited belong to elderly people working in their vegetable gardens. Soon there will be nobody left here.

After passing the Subaru Hotel, I leave the Kohechi and continue on the main road until Totsukawa Onsen, about 2 km away. From there I catch a 3:40 p.m. bus back to Hotel Katayama. Hot baths, dinner, and rest.

Day 3

I had planned to reach Hongu Taisha via the last section of the Kohechi, but I made a mistake while preparing the trip and have to change my plans. I wanted to leave early, arrive at Hongu Taisha mid-afternoon, and return to Kyoto right after. But the trailhead is at Totsukawa Onsen, whereas the Katayama hotel is in Totsukawa—just Totsukawa. The town hall is here, for instance. There are hot springs too. But it’s not the Totsukawa Onsen. There is a bus connecting the two places, but it only leaves at 8 am, and drops passengers 2 km from the trail start, meaning I’d start too late. So, no hike today. I take the bus but head straight to Hongu Taisha.

It’s 9:30 when I reach the top of the staircase leading to the shrine. There aren’t many people—very pleasant. I have time to enjoy the site and remember my previous visit.

I walk back down and stroll between the river and the huge torii. I have a bowl of ramen a little after noon, then take a digestive walk around the shrine. I return to Kyoto after a long journey by bus and train (about 5h30).

I’m glad I managed to walk part of the Kohechi route. It didn’t rain, and physically I held up well (not technical, but quite demanding). I enjoyed the trail and the quiet countryside. The remoteness of these places is soothing, but it comes at a price: planning is difficult. There’s little information online about transportation—you have to call or ask locally. Buses run infrequently, so you need to plan ahead and keep an eye on the time. As for hotels, not all offer online reservations; some don’t even have a website. And finally, you have to pay attention to place names—but that’s true everywhere!