Road-trip in Hokkaido

Day 1

We pick up a rental car at Kushiro Airport in the late afternoon and head towards Lake Akan. We follow straight roads through fields and forests, spotting local deers. It’s drizzling. It’s dark by the time we reach the hotel in Akancho.

Day 2

We drive 30 minutes east to the Yamanoyado Nonaka onsen. From there, we begin our ascent of mount Meakan. First through a lovely undergrowth, then over more open terrain. We catch sight of Lake Onneto nearby and continue climbing. We take a break 45 minutes from the summit on a plateau. It’s already late, the sun is blazing, and we’re almost out of water. We decide to head back down after enjoying the view. It’s the start of the trip, better to play it safe.

After resting at the bottom, we hop back in the car and head to the shores of Lake Onneto. There’s a campground on the banks, with many tents. The drizzle from yesterday returns.

Back at the hotel, we enjoy the sunset over Lake Akan.

Day 3

Departure for Utoro. We cross a mountain pass and make our first stop at the shore of Lake Kussharo. We walk a 2km trail around the Wakoto Peninsula. The heat and humidity are almost unbearable, and the dense vegetation blocks most viewpoints. I’m exhausted when we return to the parking lot.

We continue along the lakeshore and stop at Sunayu Beach for lunch. Then we drive to one of the Lake Mashū observatories. The road climbs to 650 meters, and a terrace at the top offers a panoramic view over the lake. It’s cool here, almost cold. The wind is strong, and clouds race past us. It’s a welcome change.

We descend and stop briefly to see the Kaminoko-ike Pond. At the bottom of this bright azure pool, there are a few tree trunks. As the water remains cold year-round, the wood doesn’t decompose.

After two hours of driving and a meal break, we finally arrive in Utoro. We stop just before the town to gaze at the stars and watch the moon reflect on the sea.

Day 4

This morning’s goal is to see Lake Rausu, accessible by foot from Shiretoko Pass. There’s almost no elevation gain, just a 6km round-trip walk: a piece of cake.

We stop at the Shiretoko Nature Center before heading to the pass to get some information. A staff member advises us to rent boots to visit the lake. About a hundred pairs of boots in various sizes wait patiently nearby. I’m doubtful about their necessity, but we eventually leave with boots in hand. We park the car at the pass, surrounded by clouds. The starting point is 3km away, but since there’s no parking there, the last stretch is done by bus. Once there, we can barely find the trailhead as it’s not marked from the road. Anyway, 10 meters in, we immediately see why boots were suggested: the path is flooded. We slowly wade through 20cm of murky water. There are a few dry spots, but they are very short. Most of the time, we’re sloshing through varying degrees of mud. We have to avoid low-hanging branches, step over fallen trees. The fog and dense low vegetation obscure the view. And always, the water… We cover the first kilometer in an hour—what a hassle! We pause in front of a secondary lake and then turn back. No lake Rausu for us… Back on the road, we have to either wait an hour for the bus or walk 40 minutes to the pass: we wait, soaking in the “misty” atmosphere. After 45 minutes, a car pulls up and picks up a hiker waiting next to us. The driver offers us a ride to the pass, and we gladly accept.

We retrieve the car, see the sunshine again, and return to the Nature Center. We hand back the boots—thank you so much—and grab a bite at the cafeteria. Then we head out to visit the five lakes of Shiretoko (Shiretoko-Goko), a 20-minute drive away.

The visit begins with a video explaining the dangers of encountering bears in the area: how to avoid them, and what to do if a bear shows up. A guide provides additional details and answers questions, then opens the gate to the site. The trail is flat, shaded, and very well maintained. We walk through a stunning landscape, discovering the lakes one by one, like mirrors reflecting the mountains in the background. Deers roam here and there. Majestic.

We end the day at a restaurant in Utoro, where we try the local specialty of grilled lamb.

Day 5

This morning, we have a guided walk scheduled with Gen-san at the Nature Center. It’s raining as we leave the center and head toward the sea. We pass through a wire fence and find ourselves in a deciduous forest that suddenly gives way to a coniferous one. Gen-san explains that the first has replaced former cultivated land, while the second has been left untouched. He points out notable trees, flowers, and mushrooms. Bear claw marks on a tree trunk. Footprints. The rain stops. We walk slowly and arrive above a cove, which we skirt. We plunge back into the forest before emerging onto another cliff. From here, we have a view of much of Shiretoko’s northern coastline, but the tip is hidden in fog. Gen-san lends us his binoculars to observe seabirds, while a family of deer grazes quietly nearby. It’s time to return to the center, taking another forest path. After parting ways with Gen-san, we take the car for lunch at a seafood restaurant near Utoro.

We then cross the peninsula to the small town of Rausu. The pass is clear this time, and the drive goes quickly. Once at the hotel, we take time to relax and enjoy the hot baths.

Finding a dinner spot in Rausu is tricky, but the town is charming. We end up at a yakitori restaurant full of regulars.

Day 6

We get a call at 7 a.m. The whale-watching excursion is canceled: the weather is bad, the sea is rough, and the boats remain in port. Too bad.

We take the car and drive along the peninsula’s southern coast. We make a few stops at points of interest before returning to Rausu. We have lunch and then hit the road towards Hamanaka.

We take a break in Shibetsu mid-trip but don’t linger.

Upon arriving in Hamanaka, we drop off our bags at the hotel and head to Cape Azechi, just nearby. The clouds roll in, canceling the sunset as well.

Day 7

We head to Nemuro for a seafood lunch. Then we tour the peninsula. Our first stop is Cape Nosappu, Japan’s easternmost point. A monument and signs planted by the sea call for the return of some of the Kuril Islands.

Next is Cape Hanasaki, offering beautiful views of the coast and a walkway that brings us close to the waves crashing against the rocks.

Finally, we visit Cape Ochiishi, with its wooden log walkway and lighthouse. We are nearly alone; the weather is gloomy, and darkness is slowly falling. The atmosphere becomes surreal. A group of deer lingers around the parking lot as we head back to the car.

Back at the hotel, we enjoy a hot bath and dinner at Kiritappu Onsen, which overlooks Hamanaka.

Day 8

We leisurely make our way back to Kushiro Airport, making a few stops along the coast. We get to see the sea from new angles, fend off swarms of mosquitoes, and meet a rather fearless fox.

We grab a quick bite at the airport after returning the car. Back to Kyoto.

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