Hike on Rambling Record

Ninose – Ohara

Sat, 14 Feb 2026 00:00:00 +0000

+700 m / -650 m / 13 km

I reach Ninose by train around 9:30 a.m. I get ready and head north after crossing the river. On the right, a small opening in a rockfall fence marks the start of the trail. The first 500 meters are not very inviting: the route is hard to make out, fallen trees block the way, and the ground is slippery on the steeper sections.

Hiking Along the Water, Again

Sat, 15 Nov 2025 00:00:00 +0000

+50 m / -100 m / 8 km

Today we’re back on the same route as two months ago, between Takao and the Hozu Gorge. We catch the bus around 9:50 at Marutamachi Onmaedori. We don’t stop at Jingoji and head straight for the riverside trail.

This time, the sun is out. Leaves in every shade imaginable reflect on the water—an exceptional sight! We feel lucky at every turn…

While waiting for the 1:20 p.m. train at JR Hozukyo Station, we spot the Sagano sight-seeing train arriving down below. Several photographers are there to capture the moment. We leave a few minutes later, but they stay put to catch the next passes!

Kohechi

Mon, 10 Nov 2025 00:00:00 +0000

Kohechi is one of the three Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes. It’s the most mountainous of the three and links Koyasan to Hongu Taisha. See:https://www.tb-kumano.jp/en/kumano-kodo/kohechi/

I spent the night at the Nosegawa Hotel, tucked away in the Kii Mountains. The staff were welcoming, and the place had everything a hiker might need: hot baths of course, a shuttle service from Koyasan, drop-off at the trailhead, a picnic option, etc.—very convenient. The baths clearly weren’t off-limits to people with tattoos, because almost everyone had one! One guy had a tattoo covering his entire back. Judging by the style, I think he was a Yakuza… I didn’t ask for confirmation.

Mount Haku

Fri, 03 Oct 2025 00:00:00 +0000

+1350 m / -1350 m / 14 km

We’re off work this Friday. We leave Nijo Station at 6:59 and transfer at Kyoto Station to the Thunderbird, a limited express train that runs all the way to Tsuruga, at the northern tip of Lake Biwa. From there we take a local train to Fukui. Once there, we pick up a rental car and drive to Bettodeai, the starting point of our hike. We arrive around noon.

Hiking along the water

Sun, 14 Sep 2025 00:00:00 +0000

+230 m / -290 m / 9 km

The forecast says cloudy all day. I don’t feel like climbing a summit just to find the view blocked, so I pick a valley-floor hike instead. The trail follows a river between Takao and Hozukyo for 9 km, with a 5 km option leading to Arashiyama.

I buy a picnic at Fresco and catch the 8:21 bus at Marutamachi Onmaedori. I reach Takao just before 9. First I have to descend to the river. After a pretty red bridge, there’s a hotel (with baths, maybe?) and the tables of a restaurant set just above the water, under the maples. It must be packed in autumn!

Sunrise on mount Fuji

Thu, 05 Sep 2024 00:00:00 +0000

+1400 m / -1400 m / 11 km

Departure by shinkansen a little after 6:30 a.m. from Kyoto Station, arriving at Mishima at 9:20. Then we take a bus to Mizugatsuka Park. There’s a large parking lot, already fairly full, a souvenir shop that also serves as a cafeteria, and, most importantly, the station for the shuttle buses that go up to 2400 m. We wait a few minutes and board. At the top, there’s another parking lot and a cluster of temporary buildings housing various services: gear rental, a café, lockers, and so on.

The Sun at the summit

Thu, 13 Jun 2024 00:00:00 +0000

+1250 m / -1250 m / 17 km

It’s mid-June and it’s hot. I’ve prepared a few things for a Mount Fuji climb at the end of August. Stories about watching the sunrise from the summit gave me an idea: to climb Mount Bunagatake at night (after discovering it this winter), in the cool, catch the sunrise, and head back down before the heat sets in.

By taking a Friday off, I can leave on a Thursday evening, finish the climb the next day, and rest for the following two days. The perfect plan.

Back on the Kyoto Trail

Fri, 22 Mar 2024 00:00:00 +0000

+500 m / -580 m / 13 km

I’m not working this Friday, and unlike the previous days, it’s not raining. I’m heading out for a rather “short” hike to enjoy the outdoors without burning myself. I initially wanted to walk south of Kyoto and pass by Yokokuji temple, but I prefer to avoid the crowds and opt for a less touristy route.

I set off from Ninose around 10:45 a.m. on the Kyoto Trail, the path that circles Kyoto, heading southwest. I first climb Mount Mukai. It’s not very high (424 m says the sign at the summit), but I still come across some patches of snow here and there.

Bunagatake

Sun, 14 Jan 2024 00:00:00 +0000

+1250 m / -1250 m / 16 km

The sun is still behind the hills as I arrive at Hira Station to climb Mount Bunagatake. It has been on my list for a while, and the weather forecast finally convinced me, even though it snowed last night. I got snow crampons yesterday, hoping not to need more (gaiters or snowshoes).

I first walk on a road that crosses rice fields and come across a group of people gathered around a fairly large bonfire. I will later learn that it’s adondoyaki: wooden decorations used to celebrate the New Year are stacked and burned, for the purpose of purification.

The Rochers de Trenze

Sat, 30 Dec 2023 00:00:00 +0000

Heading to Lozère and the Cévennes for a hike around the Rochers de Trenze.

Starting from Vialas, the ascent is gentle and steady, leading to the hamlet of Gourdouze. The path then follows the eponymous stream and runs along the Rochers de Trenze that overlook Vialas. The descent is a bit technical but very enjoyable, first among the broom bushes and then on a paved path under the chestnut trees.

Mount Atago

Sun, 17 Dec 2023 00:00:00 +0000

+1050 m / -1100 m / 19 km

I leave at night to take a bus 15 minutes from my place. I’m going east of Kyoto. I change buses and find myself at daybreak in Kiyotaki. I follow a small road that goes into a valley, then I turn left to get down to business.

I hesitate for a moment at an unmarked crossover: I can’t decipher all the handwritten kanji… Finally, the two paths meet 50 meters further on. I think there was the “new” path and the old, but if that’s the case I don’t see the point of indicating the old. Anyway, I continue and arrive at the Tsukinowa temple. There are two or three makeshift dwellings right next to the temple, and “do not enter” signs are placed everywhere. A deer quietly passes by on the path during my break. When leaving, I hear an alarm or a bell, and since I’m not sure if I’m in the right place, I don’t linger any longer.

Mount Horai

Sat, 02 Dec 2023 00:00:00 +0000

+1180 m / -1180 m / 13 km

Get up at dawn to climb Mount Horai. This mountain overlooks Lake Biwa, and a gondola lift has been built close to the summit. A few ski slopes and a panoramic restaurant are to be found there.

I join with a friend at 7 a.m. at Kyoto Station and we leave for Horai station in Otsu.

The road rises as soon as we leave the station and we quickly have a beautiful view of Lake Biwa. The road turns into a large path, then a trail. The ascent is easy and steady. Towards the summits, we find ourselves in a cloud of snow. It’s very windy, sometimes we struggle to keep our balance on the ridge path.

Kamikochi

Fri, 27 Oct 2023 00:00:00 +0000

Intro

Leaving at 10:50 p.m. from Kyoto Station by a night bus. The night is short since it takes about 6h30 to get to the Kamikochi bus terminal: arriving at 5:20 a.m. in a freezing cold. With the darkness and the fog, nothing exists beyond 50 m. At 6 a.m. I have breakfast in the cafeteria that has just opened, then I leave some of my belongings at the luggage room. It’s time to get moving.

The countryside within reach of Kyoto

Mon, 16 Oct 2023 00:00:00 +0000

+1070 m / -940 m / 19 km

The hike of the day is a stage of the Kyoto Trail, at the northeast of Kyoto (in blue on the map). It is feasible from station to station by slightly adapting the route.

I take the subway at Sanjo towards the north until Demachiyanagi, and I change for a single-car train which brings me to Yase Hieizanguchi. It’s a bit steep-sided. I must cross the river but the bridge shown on the map is nowhere to be seen, only pillars remain… I reach the next one 200 m farther. I climb Mount Hiei via the Eastern slope that I don’t know yet. It is a path that gets lost from time to time. I come across some sort of sanctuary where statues are disposed in lines. I meet the Kyoto Trail again a bit before reaching the summit, as well as the markings seen the last time. By the way, there are about 200 m shared with that previous hike but instead of going down to the main lodges of Enryakuji, I take to the left on a crest trail going down gently.

Mount Hiei

Sun, 17 Sep 2023 00:00:00 +0000

+730 m / -760 m / 14 km

I meet two colleagues on the Kamo around 8 a.m. and we go to the hike starting point by bike, around 6 km northeast. We drop the bikes on what looks like the parking lot of the nearby hostpital (Japan Baptist Hospital), not knowing whether we are allowed to do so, and we start climbing.

No painted marks to find your way. Instead, there is a sign at each crossing, coming with its little statue. It shows a plan of the crossing, with all the junctions and the main destinations. Sadly, there is no mention of the distances, durations or heights. I don’t know whether this system is only local or used throughout the country.

Trekking in the Écrins

Sat, 01 Jul 2023 00:00:00 +0000

Intro

Leaving on Saturday at 7 a.m. from Gare de Lyon, towards Grenoble. A bus then drops me at the UCPA Serre-Chevalier around 2 p.m. My friends traveled with the night train and are already there. We spend the rest of the day between the swimming pool, the bar and the terrace. We chat with the staff and other participants.

The UCPA centre, its terrace and swimming pool