This year is no exception,Setsubunfalls on February 3rd. I head to Rozanji temple to attend the festivities. The schedule includes demon dance at 3 p.m., bean throwing at 4, followed by a ritual fire at 5.
Upon arrival, the dense crowd overflows from the temple grounds onto the sidewalk. The same scene repeats at the second gate. I circle the block in search of a more discreet entrance, but to no avail. I return to the first gate, but the situation remains unchanged. After waiting for 5 minutes, noticing no movement, I decide to venture further towards Yoshida temple.
Numerous stalls have been set up, and Kyoto locals stroll under the torii gates. This temple hasn’t publicized its program to avoid congestion, I understand why. I explore a bit and climb the hill behind the temple. I stumble upon Mo-an, a somewhat chic café nestled amidst the trees.
Mo-anOn my way back, I briefly enter Kyoto University. I wonder if it’s an open day as people are taking photos in front of the buildings. I pass by Rozanji again, and the crowd has now dispersed. I finally enter. A fire still burns, and a demon offers its protection to the remaining visitors. The atmosphere is soothing. Halfway Setsubun, but I saw a demon!
