Kyoto on Rambling Record

Blooming Miyama

Sun, 05 Apr 2026 00:00:00 +0000

Like last year (in Ohara), we head north of Kyoto to enjoy the cherry blossoms away from the crowds. We first drive toward Takao, then through the countryside to the Miyama Fureai Hiroba rest area. We have lunch there and try some ice cream made with local milk.

We then visit Kayabuki no Sato, a village known for its thatched roofs. After that, we head to the park by Ono Dam, which is hosting a small festival this weekend. The lake is at its lowest level at this time of year, but the park is filled with cherry trees! We head back to Kyoto in the late afternoon.

Ninose – Ohara

Sat, 14 Feb 2026 00:00:00 +0000

+700 m / -650 m / 13 km

I reach Ninose by train around 9:30 a.m. I get ready and head north after crossing the river. On the right, a small opening in a rockfall fence marks the start of the trail. The first 500 meters are not very inviting: the route is hard to make out, fallen trees block the way, and the ground is slippery on the steeper sections.

A snowy Sunday

Sun, 08 Feb 2026 00:00:00 +0000

I glance out the window this morning and, just as the forecast said, big snowflakes are falling. I decide to get up and go take a few photos. I would like to head to Kuramadera (seen in autumn), which is easy to reach by train. I also plan to make a small detour on the way via Kinkakuji, which I have never seen in the snow. This is the perfect chance.

Hiking Along the Water, Again

Sat, 15 Nov 2025 00:00:00 +0000

+50 m / -100 m / 8 km

Today we’re back on the same route as two months ago, between Takao and the Hozu Gorge. We catch the bus around 9:50 at Marutamachi Onmaedori. We don’t stop at Jingoji and head straight for the riverside trail.

This time, the sun is out. Leaves in every shade imaginable reflect on the water—an exceptional sight! We feel lucky at every turn…

While waiting for the 1:20 p.m. train at JR Hozukyo Station, we spot the Sagano sight-seeing train arriving down below. Several photographers are there to capture the moment. We leave a few minutes later, but they stay put to catch the next passes!

Hiking along the water

Sun, 14 Sep 2025 00:00:00 +0000

+230 m / -290 m / 9 km

The forecast says cloudy all day. I don’t feel like climbing a summit just to find the view blocked, so I pick a valley-floor hike instead. The trail follows a river between Takao and Hozukyo for 9 km, with a 5 km option leading to Arashiyama.

I buy a picnic at Fresco and catch the 8:21 bus at Marutamachi Onmaedori. I reach Takao just before 9. First I have to descend to the river. After a pretty red bridge, there’s a hotel (with baths, maybe?) and the tables of a restaurant set just above the water, under the maples. It must be packed in autumn!

Ayabe

Sat, 26 Jul 2025 00:00:00 +0000

It’s fireworks season. Each city holds its own display on a different date, so it’s possible to see fireworks every weekend throughout July and August. This year we choose Ayabe. We wander around the town in the sweltering heat, then, as the day fades, we climb up to a park on higher ground to watch the show. The structure is rather classic: a succession of “chapters” where the pace builds until a mini “grand finale.” In one of the chapters, a few shells explode into the shape of a smiley face (a circle, two eyes, a smile)… meh, I’m not convinced. The finale, on the other hand, is spectacular!

Ohara in bloom

Sat, 12 Apr 2025 00:00:00 +0000

Ohara is a rural area about 40 minutes north of Kyoto by bus. It’s not very far, but it’s usually cooler up there. The cherry blossoms bloom a few days later than in the city center.

We do a bit of shopping upon arrival, then follow the Takano River south. It’s hot! I’ve got a beanie in my bag, but it’s clearly not the right kind of headwear.

The riverbanks are covered in white blossoms. There’s hardly anyone around—it’s very peaceful. Eventually, we reach a small shop that makes condiments and sweets using red shiso. Just below, a field of rapeseed glows with vibrant colors.

Hanami in Higashiyama

Sun, 06 Apr 2025 00:00:00 +0000

After yesterday’s walk, we head to Higashiyama and the Philosopher’s Path. There are more people under the trees, but it’s still a pleasant stroll.

Around Tofukuji

Sat, 05 Apr 2025 00:00:00 +0000

After the plum trees, the cherry trees bloom in turn. We start from Tofukuji Station and head east to visit a few temples. Then we walk along the Kamo River and through Kiyamachi to reach the city center.

Loose pictures: Winter 2025

Mon, 31 Mar 2025 00:00:00 +0000

January 13th – At the Warajiya restaurant in Kyoto

January 13th – Visit of the Kyoto National Museum

January 13th – Shichijo

February 18th – Mont Hiei with some snow

February 24th – Around Bukkyo University

The plum trees of Jounangu

Fri, 21 Mar 2025 00:00:00 +0000

Spring is here! The cherry blossoms aren’t out yet, but the plum trees are ahead of them. I head to the modest Jounangu Shrine to explore its garden. There are quite a few people strolling through the narrow paths, but plenty of blossoms for everyone.

Loose pictures: Fall 2024

Tue, 31 Dec 2024 00:00:00 +0000

September 23rd – Visiting Chionin temple

October 6th – Marutamachi

October 22nd – Nîmes viewed from the Magne tower (2/2)

October 22nd – Jardins de la Fontaine (1/2)

October 22nd – Jardins de la Fontaine (2/2)

Momiji in Kyoto

Sun, 01 Dec 2024 00:00:00 +0000

After Kameoka, stroll in Higashiyama around Nanzenji.

Momiji in Kameoka

Sat, 30 Nov 2024 00:00:00 +0000

The momiji season has arrived later than usual. First outing in the countryside of Kameoka, west of Kyoto.

Gion Matsuri

Tue, 23 Jul 2024 00:00:00 +0000

This festival is one of the most popular in Japan. Every year around mid-July, people come from all over the country to attend the festivities, which are centered around two parades held one week apart.

Twenty-three wooden floats are assembled a few days before the first procession. The construction sites are scattered across the city center streets, which are partially or completely closed to traffic. Traditional music groups perform, street vendors set up, outdoor seating appears in front of shops and restaurants, and crowds stroll around in kimonos, grab a bite to eat, and admire the floats.

Loose pictures: May / June 2024

Sun, 30 Jun 2024 00:00:00 +0000

May 18th – Sanjo bridge

May 26th – Visit of the MIHO museum (1/2)

May 26th – Visit of the MIHO museum (2/2)

June 2nd – Saishō-in temple

June 2nd – Okunoin temple

June 2nd – Clouds coming from the north

Loose pictures: April 2024

Tue, 30 Apr 2024 00:00:00 +0000

April 6th – Kiyomizudera

April 7th – Heianjingu shrine

April 7th – Ginkakuji (1/2)

April 7th – Ginkakuji (2/2)

April 15th – At the top of Mount Horai (1/2)

April 15th – At the top of Mount Horai (2/2)

Trip to the sea of Japan

Sat, 27 Apr 2024 00:00:00 +0000

We reserved the last two seats on the bus from Kyoto to Amanohashidate at the beginning of the week. To travel on the first weekend of Golden Week, you either need to plan well in advance or be a bit lucky. Departing from the station around 9 a.m., we arrive at Amanohashidate Station 2 h later. We have lunch nearby and then visit Chionji Temple. We rent bikes in front of the Kaisen Bridge and pedal to cross the lagoon. The path along the sandbar is very pleasant: shaded and bordered by water on both sides.

In Fushimi Inari Taisha at night…

Sun, 31 Mar 2024 00:00:00 +0000

… there’s almost no one! Despite the shrine being open all the time, and the torii paths being all lit up. There are a few walkers and two or three cats left. The ghosts are also out and about, showing themselves to anyone willing to see them. The darkness and silence create a very different atmosphere from what I’ve experienced before. A nice discovery!

Loose pictures: March 2024

Sun, 31 Mar 2024 00:00:00 +0000

March 16th – On the philosopher’s path (1/2)

March 16th – On the philosopher’s path (2/2)

March 24th – Visiting the botanical garden by night (1/2)

March 24th – Visiting the botanical garden by night (2/2)

Back on the Kyoto Trail

Fri, 22 Mar 2024 00:00:00 +0000

+500 m / -580 m / 13 km

I’m not working this Friday, and unlike the previous days, it’s not raining. I’m heading out for a rather “short” hike to enjoy the outdoors without burning myself. I initially wanted to walk south of Kyoto and pass by Yokokuji temple, but I prefer to avoid the crowds and opt for a less touristy route.

I set off from Ninose around 10:45 a.m. on the Kyoto Trail, the path that circles Kyoto, heading southwest. I first climb Mount Mukai. It’s not very high (424 m says the sign at the summit), but I still come across some patches of snow here and there.

Uji

Sun, 10 Mar 2024 00:00:00 +0000

Uji is a small town south of Kyoto. It is home to a quite famous temple, as it is depicted on the 10-yen coins: the Byodoin. One of the phoenixes adorning the roof of the structure is also visible on the 10,000-yen bills.

Matcha is a local specialty, and the shops in the area sell everything ‘matcha-flavored’, which I quite enjoy. We first visit the Ujikami Shrine, then climb Mount Daikichiyama. There’s an observation deck at the top that allows for sunbathing.

Loose pictures: January / February 2024

Thu, 29 Feb 2024 00:00:00 +0000

January 4th – Place d’Italie

February 4th – Kiyomizudera

February 4th – Yasaka pagoda

February 29th – On Sanjodori street

Halfway Setsubun

Sat, 03 Feb 2024 00:00:00 +0000

This year is no exception,Setsubunfalls on February 3rd. I head to Rozanji temple to attend the festivities. The schedule includes demon dance at 3 p.m., bean throwing at 4, followed by a ritual fire at 5.

Upon arrival, the dense crowd overflows from the temple grounds onto the sidewalk. The same scene repeats at the second gate. I circle the block in search of a more discreet entrance, but to no avail. I return to the first gate, but the situation remains unchanged. After waiting for 5 minutes, noticing no movement, I decide to venture further towards Yoshida temple.

Loose pictures: December 2023

Sun, 31 Dec 2023 00:00:00 +0000

December 9th – Hike at Mt Take (1/2)

December 9th – Hike at Mt Take (2/2)

December 16th – In Kyoto

December 23rd – The Simone de Beauvoir footbridge and the National Library of France

Mount Atago

Sun, 17 Dec 2023 00:00:00 +0000

+1050 m / -1100 m / 19 km

I leave at night to take a bus 15 minutes from my place. I’m going east of Kyoto. I change buses and find myself at daybreak in Kiyotaki. I follow a small road that goes into a valley, then I turn left to get down to business.

I hesitate for a moment at an unmarked crossover: I can’t decipher all the handwritten kanji… Finally, the two paths meet 50 meters further on. I think there was the “new” path and the old, but if that’s the case I don’t see the point of indicating the old. Anyway, I continue and arrive at the Tsukinowa temple. There are two or three makeshift dwellings right next to the temple, and “do not enter” signs are placed everywhere. A deer quietly passes by on the path during my break. When leaving, I hear an alarm or a bell, and since I’m not sure if I’m in the right place, I don’t linger any longer.

Daigoji

Mon, 11 Dec 2023 00:00:00 +0000

I’m not working today. I’m off to Daigoji temple to take some pictures. Momiji season is almost over, and since it’s Monday, there’s hardly anyone around! It must also be said that this temple does not attract as much as the classics.

Once there, the weather becomes cloudy quite quickly. I’ll deal with it!

Back to the Live House Gattaca

Sun, 10 Dec 2023 00:00:00 +0000

I met Take-san at a meetup once month ago. He is one of the guitarist from Ninefall, a rock band based in Kyoto. And they are playing tonight at the Live House Gattaca!

Source: http://kyoto-gattaca.jp/info/index.html

I get there just a few minutes before the show. I meet with Take-san and we have a drink. The first of the six bands planned for the night starts playing.

Source: http://kyoto-gattaca.jp/schedule/2023/12.html

The venue has not gotten bigger since the last time, but the conditions are still top notch: not too crowded, very good sound, and artists are really close. Ninefall is up next. I already know “Zanka”, and I discover their other titles which are just as efficient.

Loose pictures: November 2023

Thu, 30 Nov 2023 00:00:00 +0000

November 11th – Around Osaka Umeda station

November 18th – Concert at the Kyoto RHOM Theatre

November 19th – The minimal Honpo-ji Tahoto pagoda

November 21st – A good ramen restaurant, at the end of a alley

Kurama – Kibune

Fri, 24 Nov 2023 00:00:00 +0000

I take advantage of waking up early to go to Kurama. It has been a month since I want to return there, and I haven’t seen the momiji around Kyoto yet. There are some in the city of course, but they are a bit dull. From what I heard, it has been too hot here for their foliage to really turn red.

Going north then, with a subway and a train. It’s not crowded this morning, I can easily sit down. Around the end of the trip, the train goes through tunnels of red and yellow leaves.

Loose pictures: October 2023

Tue, 31 Oct 2023 00:00:00 +0000

October 8th – Festival at Gokounomiya temple

October 14th – Fushimi Momoyama castle

October 15th – Behind the railroad crossing: the Kyoto Laundry Café organizes international meetups

October 18th

October 22nd – Passing by, open air live music (Asage)

October 26th – On the way to work

The countryside within reach of Kyoto

Mon, 16 Oct 2023 00:00:00 +0000

+1070 m / -940 m / 19 km

The hike of the day is a stage of the Kyoto Trail, at the northeast of Kyoto (in blue on the map). It is feasible from station to station by slightly adapting the route.

I take the subway at Sanjo towards the north until Demachiyanagi, and I change for a single-car train which brings me to Yase Hieizanguchi. It’s a bit steep-sided. I must cross the river but the bridge shown on the map is nowhere to be seen, only pillars remain… I reach the next one 200 m farther. I climb Mount Hiei via the Eastern slope that I don’t know yet. It is a path that gets lost from time to time. I come across some sort of sanctuary where statues are disposed in lines. I meet the Kyoto Trail again a bit before reaching the summit, as well as the markings seen the last time. By the way, there are about 200 m shared with that previous hike but instead of going down to the main lodges of Enryakuji, I take to the left on a crest trail going down gently.

Loose pictures: september 2023

Sat, 30 Sep 2023 00:00:00 +0000

September 5th – Kyoto Station

September 8th – At the office, the cafeteria

September 11th – In front of my door

September 14th – The Kamo banks

September 24th – My new roommate

September 28th – The Kamo, and Mount Hiei on the right

Going with the flow

Sat, 23 Sep 2023 00:00:00 +0000

This Sunday I go to a meetup at the Kyoto Laundry Cafe. It’s a bit crowded, there are one or two Frenchmen and a few French-speaking Japanese who seem happy to practice. Other expats as well. People of all ages.

I talk to a Japanese guy who I met yesterday in another meetup… Yesterday again, two locals told me about foreigners working at my company, who I had met the week before… I have the feeling that the expat community and its supporters is a small world. Maybe there’s more people in Osaka ?

Mount Hiei

Sun, 17 Sep 2023 00:00:00 +0000

+730 m / -760 m / 14 km

I meet two colleagues on the Kamo around 8 a.m. and we go to the hike starting point by bike, around 6 km northeast. We drop the bikes on what looks like the parking lot of the nearby hostpital (Japan Baptist Hospital), not knowing whether we are allowed to do so, and we start climbing.

No painted marks to find your way. Instead, there is a sign at each crossing, coming with its little statue. It shows a plan of the crossing, with all the junctions and the main destinations. Sadly, there is no mention of the distances, durations or heights. I don’t know whether this system is only local or used throughout the country.

Around Gion

Sun, 10 Sep 2023 00:00:00 +0000

A bit of rest this Sunday afternoon, for the first time since I got here. I just need to get some stuff from Yodobashi and from Nitori, the Japanese Ikea. Both stores are near the Kyoto Station. The weather is rather nice, this must be a good time to go there following the Kamo, the river which crosses the city from north to south. I leave on foot towards the east, through Pontocho until I meet with the river.